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kayaking Maine rivers paddling

Maine’s Forgotten Rivers

Inaccessible by road. Difficult to access on foot. Hidden by sections of woods or bluffs. Curving through secluded woods near the center of town or winding through a patch of wilderness between towns.

Most often, these forgotten stretches are on the smaller rivers — the Sheepscot or St. George, rather than the Kennebec or the Penobscot. Take a look at these rivers today and it’s hard to imagine that they were once bustling corridors of commerce, trade, and industry. But testimonies to their history remain. Hidden in the underbrush along the St. George River in Searsmont are the remnants of a canal system designed to bring barges up to Searsmont. It’s hard to travel more than a mile along the Sheepscot or the Passagassawakeag and not come along the remnants of an old bridge or dam or mill.

And these forgotten rivers offer natural beauty and opportunities for recreation along with their history. A dozen miles north of Machias lies a pitch of whitewater known as “Great Falls” that is not written up in most river guides and is omitted from most whitewater canoe trips. A few miles south of that is the remnants of a canal system that was used in log drives. Beyond that, in Whitneyville, is another fairly spectacular set of waterfalls, viewable from the road, that somehow seems to draw little attention to itself.

Less than 10 miles west of there, the Pleasant River offers its own surprises. After miles of switchbacks and slow-water-meandering through the Great Heath and the blueberry barrens of Columbia, it quickens its pace through sections of picturesque Class II rapids as it descends to the village of Columbia Falls. These are a few sections of river I’ve been fortunate to explore by kayak this spring.

It’s a little sad that so many of our miles of rivers have been forgotten. Again and again, I am struck by the beauty that has been “lost” on so many of us. Once you get started and see the possibilities, exploring these little-known rivers is fairly addictive. If I don’t get my lawn mowed this weekend, it’s because I took out the Delorme Atlas again and have been lured off to explore yet another forgotten section of river.

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kayak racing kayaking Kenduskeag Maine rivers

Why I Love the Kenduskeag

Upwards of 500 watercraft and 1000 paddlers. 16.5 miles. Two portages. 10,260 strokes. 900+ calories burned. 1:50.08 all-time record (held by Robert Lang of New Brunswick. Date: Saturday, April 18.

I’ve competed in 5-K and 10-K road races, cross country races, xc ski races, and triathlons, but I haven’t found a form of racing I enjoy as much as kayak racing. I’ve paddled all kinds of rivers — and raced on at least a half dozen of them, but I haven’t found a river race I enjoy as much as the annual Kenduskeag Stream Canoe Race.

Part of it is the number of canoes and kayaks involved — more than 400 on most years. Part of it is the length and difficulty of the race — 10 miles of flatwater followed by 6.5 miles of whitewater, made all the more difficult by fatigue. Part of it is the tradition — the race has been around for more than 40 years now, and the returnees each year include notables such as the Gumby boat (photo above) and Zip Kellogg, (photo below) who wears a coat and top hat and paddles much of the race standing up.

A combined flatwater / whitewater race such as the Kenduskeag is a triathlon in itself. The first event is the 10 miles of flatwater, which tests your physical and mental stamina and your ability to get in a groove with your paddling stroke. The second event is the whitewater, a combined test of strategy, skill, and pluck. The third event (actually interpersed with the second one) is the two mandatory portages, in which competitors stagger ashore in wet gear, and labor their way through crowds of park-goers and spectators, carrying their suddenly clumsy craft through the mud.

How to survive it all. How to go fast the whole time and still leave enough to get to the finish. How to keep focus through those inevitable moments when, disoriented by fatigue, you forget you are in a race at all — and it is just you, your boat, and that river shining under the spring sunlight.

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Maine rivers whitewater

St. George River (Searsmont, Maine) Open!

“Oh, to have been a fly on the wall and seen the action in this valley for the last 300 years.” –Zip Kellogg, Canoeing, Volume 1, Eastern & Coastal Rivers

Paddled the 6-mile section of the St. George between Searsmont and North Appleton yesterday. The river level can be described as “the high side of medium.” I touched no rocks on the entire trip — but I’ve definitely been on the river when the current was stronger and the standing waves were bigger.

The river is clear of ice on this entire section. Took the drop above the Ghent Road bridge on river right as usual. The drop at Magog is clear of obstructions — and frothy enough to be a lot of fun.

Following is the description of that section from Delorme’s Maine Geographic Canoeing Guide, Vol. 1:

The river remains gentle for two miles below Searsmont to Ghent or Robbin’s Mill, formerly known as Dyer Mills. Saws have been cutting lumber, staves, and shingles here since the early 1800’s. In the summer of 1982, the dam was removed, so scout this site carefully. The rapids just upstream of the bridge can be strong. Class II rapids continue below the bridge. The current is strong in this section of the river too, so be careful . . . be prepared to stop and scout Magog, a difficult rock-obstructed drop which may not be runnable, depending on the water level. A brick and lime kiln and quarry occupied this site many years ago. After another 1.25 miles of fairly calm waters, you’ll pass under the Route 105 bridge at North Appleton.

Parking is available on the west side of the Route 105 bridge. Take out just past the bridge, along the right bank. The shuttle (or bicycle ride) is about 5 miles back to the put in.

The annual St. George River Race (on this same section of the river) is in two weeks.

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kayak racing Maine rivers Uncategorized

St. George River Race — Searsmont, Maine

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kayak racing Maine rivers Uncategorized

St. George River Race — Pulling hard for the finish.

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St. George River Race: Fred Ludwig closes in on a first place finish.

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Ludwig finished several minutes in front of the field with a time of 38:23.
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kayak racing Maine rivers Uncategorized

Ruahine Swallow, St. George River

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Paddling the Ruahine Swallow down a stretch of flatwater on the St. George River.
More information on the Swallow here.
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kayak racing Maine rivers Uncategorized

Magog Falls, St. George

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Magag Falls on the St. George River. 3/28/07. Water level on the St. George seems just as high as last weekend, despite the cooler temperatures and lack of significant rainfall.
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kayak racing Maine rivers Uncategorized

St. George River, Magag Falls

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The drop over the old dam at Magog is a Class III drop at some water levels, but makes for a pretty easy slide when the water level is as high as it is right now on the St. George River, south of Searsmont. (Photo 3-25-07).