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A Kenduskeag Like No Other: This Year’s Race Will Present New Challenges

Navigating between the rocks on the Marsh Stream, April 2012.

Some of us have literally spent weeks worrying about low water.  No sense worrying any more or complaining about it any longer because it sure looks like that’s what we’re going to get.   The hoped for rain simply isn’t going to come in time for the race. The river is not just low; it’s dramatically and historically low.  It’s lower than it was on race day two years ago, which itself was the lowest anyone could remember — and it’s lower than that by a lot.

Want numbers?  The stream gauge at Six Mile Falls reports a depth of  3.8 feet and a flow of a 144 cubic feet per second.   This time of year, the flow generally averages 1,000 cfs.  Two years ago, the low year, when the Bangor Daily News headline following the race read “What a Slog,” the gauge read  4.4 feet and 300 cfs.

This year’s Kenduskeag Stream Canoe Race is sure to be unlike any other.  And that is one reason to participate.  Accept the low water.  Embrace it even.  The best strategy may be to stop thinking of it as a canoe race and think of it as one of those adventure races that have become all the rage.

Read about Tough Mudder, for example, and a low-water Kenduskeag suddenly seems a little more do-able.   There will be more shallows than usual, no doubt — and some of it is likely to be REALLY shallow.  More rocks to navigate around.  Some of them you might have to haul your boat over.  But it still won’t be the Tough Mudder.  No one will have to run 12 miles (half of it up a mountain).   There will be no fire rings to leap through. No belly-crawling, wall-climbing, ice-water dunking,  monkey-bar traversing. or mud-slogging.  Well, maybe some mud-slogging.

I’ve stayed up a few nights scouring the web for the secrets of paddling in shallow water.  I’ve looked at kayaking, canoeing, rowing, and yachting sites.  I even checked out some sites for pilots of large boats.  Sorry to say, but there aren’t any secrets.  Shallow water is shallow water — and, as is explained below, when you are trying to maintain the speed of your canoe or kayak in these areas, the shallow water literally sucks.

The technical term for this is shallow water drag.  As one site states, referring to the work of David Burch, when your boat enters water that is 12 inches deep while paddling at a speed of 3 knots, the resistance increases 90%.  That’s nine zero, ninety.  Basically it doubles.  Another source, also referring to Burch, states that hull speed is reduced by 50% when paddling a kayak or canoe in water that is 2 feet deep.

The loss of speed is due, at least in part, to the increased resistance of the bow wave.  In shallow areas, the water can’t move away from the boat as easily and therefore piles up at the bow.  For the paddler, this creates the unwelcome sensation that you are paddling uphill.

As if things aren’t bad enough already,  shallows can cause your boat to actually sink lower in the water, thus creating even more drag.  This is due to the Venturi effect, (told you I had been up late reading) which holds that differences in the speed that water moves creates differences in pressure.  In shallow water, the water that passes under your hull has fewer places to go and thus must move at a higher speed, which in turn creates an area of relatively lower pressure, which results in your boat sinking deeper.  The faster you go, the more your stern will sink or squat down into the water.  Isn’t that just great!

Still another factor, one that you can actually do something about, is called bank suction.  I’m not making this up.  According to the article at Don Fleming Yacht Services, “Bank suction starts when a vessel strays too close to a bank, restricting the water flow on its bank side.  The water-flow velocity increases, causing the water between the vessel and the bank to squeeze out of the area faster than it can flow back in. This causes the water level to drop between the vessel and the bank, and consequently the vessel is pulled sideways into the low-water area.”  Unfortunately, it doesn’t just affect large vessels.  Watch for this, especially when rounding a bend in shallows.  I’ve felt the stern of my kayak being pulled toward the bank just as is described above.

A few suggestions for this year’s Kenduskeag Stream Canoe Race:
(1) Seek deeper water, even if you have to paddle out of your way to find it.
(2) Back off your pace a bit as you approach a portage or a shallow area that you plan to haul over.  The time you will lose by doing this is generally less than what you would lose by arriving already out of breath at the portage.
(3) Don’t expend too much energy in shallow areas.  The laws of physics will prevent your boat from gaining much speed there, no matter how hard you paddle.
(4) When approaching shallow areas that are followed by deep water, you may want to try increasing your speed enough to “pop” your hull ahead of your own bow wave.   Experienced racers talk about this, but I’ve never yet seen it done.
(5) Attach a rope to your bow that can be used to pull your boat through areas that are too shallow to paddle through.
(6) Don’t try to pass another boat by going through the shallows on the the outside of a turn.  See the description of bank suck above.– only imagine it being amplified by the effect of the other boat.
(7) Flip flops won’t make it.  Wear something sturdy on your feet and consider something that will protect your legs as well. Shin guards (no joke) would probably work pretty well for reducing the rock-inflicted bruising you might get when walking or running through shallows.
(8) Leave your watch at home.  No records will be set this year.  Not the kind you want to set, anyway.

If you can’t paddle, run.  If you can’t run, walk.  Don’t stop until you get to the tent with the food in it.  That appears to be a winning strategy for this year’s race. The 2012 Kenduskeag Stream Canoe Race:  it will be an adventure.

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Melt Happens: Whitewater Races Soon to Follow

A week ago, the fact that the St. George River Race was just three weeks off seemed incongruous.  Snow was waist deep along the driveway, woodpile and picnic table were still hidden.  Small hills and gullies were beneath a uniform blanket of white.  It seemed likely paddlers would have a tough time finding the St. George River, never mind paddling it.

With the rains of last week, everything changed.  The new concern is that the melt will come too fast rather than too slow.  The seasonal landmark that the St. George River will be open by the last Saturday in March now seems like a good bet.

For those who haven’t paddled these rivers before, entering one of the local river races can be intimidating.  But anyone thinking about it should keep in mind that there are always novices among the field and that for many racers it is more a rite of spring, a social experience, or a chance for a good workout rather than a serious competitive endeavor.  Additionally, these races (and the clinics beforehand) actually provide an ideal opportunity for less experienced paddlers to learn a river.  Unlike other days, on race day, there are rescue personnel at the danger spots, plenty of other paddlers around to learn the river from, and plenty of opportunities to hitch a ride back to the start.

More than 3 dozen paddling races will be held before the leaves turn in October.  The first four races leading up to the Kenduskeag are:

1. St. George River Race: 11:00 AM, Saturday, March 26.  6 miles.  For paddlers: The St. George is mostly Class I and II and is a great race to begin with.  A paddling clinic is offered the afternoon before the race.   See the race: Spectators and river vultures typically gather at the start on Route 131 near downtown Searsmont, on the Ghent Road Bridge, and at the finish on the Route 135 bridge.    River fact: At high water levels, this river can be easier to paddle as the drop at Magog is smoothed out and there are fewer rocks to avoid.   Contact: Waldo County YMCA.

2. Passagasswakeag River Race.   11:00 AM, Saturday, April 2.  6 miles.  For paddlers: The Passy is just a wee step up from the St. George in terms of difficulty.  As with the George, a paddling clinic is offered the afternoon before the race.   See the race: The Rollerson Bridge on the Poor’s Mills Road is the most popular spot from which to watch this race.    River fact: When the water is high, the river offers a short cuts where savvy paddlers can leave the main course of the river and cut through the woods.   Contact: Waldo County YMCA

3. Soudabscook Stream Sprint & Race.  Saturday, April 9.  9:00 AM and 12:00 Noon, Saturday, April 2.  2 and 8 miles.  For paddlers: Stronger currents and several Class II and III drops make the Soudabscook is a step up from the two earlier races.   Scouting the river beforehand is essential.  Several portages are involved.  See the race: Several places off the Emerson Mill Road and the Papermill Road in Hampden.    River fact: Soudabscook means “sloping ledge.”  As with many rivers, this river was named for a predominant feature at the river mouth — in this case, where it joins the Penobscot.   Contact: Additional information is at www.mackro.org

4. Marsh Stream Race.  Sunday, April 10.   9:00 AM and 12:00 Noon,  1 and 8 miles.  For paddlers: Like the Sou, the Marsh Stream offers challenging Class II and III ledge drops and the currents can be strong.  Scouting the drops beforehand is essential.  Several portages are involved.  The race course is sometimes shortened in years of high water.  See the race: Several locations along the Stream Road in Winterport are ideal for watching paddlers negotiate drops.    River fact: The Marsh Stream race course includes a portage around Flatrock Falls, which is considered Class V.   Contact: Additional information is at www.mackro.org

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Not so Fast: Reflections on the Kenduskeag

“What a slog.” The three word Bangor Daily News headline went a long way to describe what many paddlers felt about the 44th annual Kenduskeag Stream Canoe Race.

The race, as described by Michael Alden at KenduskeagStream CanoeRace.com, is “held annually on the third weekend of April, [and] is the largest paddling event in New England and one of the largest in the country. Hosted by the Bangor Dept. of Parks & Recreation, the 16.5 mile race begins in the Town of Kenduskeag and ends near the confluence of the Penobscot River in downtown Bangor.”

For the 2010 version, you had to be a scrapper. Between the chilly gray weather (snow flurries at the start) and the low water conditions which meant for very bumpy trips over Six Mile Falls, some of those who had planned to participate apparently made last minute decisions not to show. A total of 889 paddlers competed, roughly 100 fewer than last year.

The Kenduskeag race, which has been run every year since 1967, has a lot of history — and this is part of what makes it special. When you are out there paddling, you are competing not only against 800 -900 other paddlers but against the thousands of others who have done the race in previous years — and who will do the race in coming years. Even more importantly, if you are a veteran of the race, you are also competing against your former and future self.

In a high water year, it’s easy to feel like a grown up athlete playing t-ball, or a golfer hitting drives on the moon. There you are, speeded by PEC’s (performance enhancing currents), strutting down the river with big grin on your face, putting your times from other years to shame. In contrast, a low water year brings a certain sobriety. You paddle hard, maybe harder than ever before — and still your times do not measure up.

This year was a low water year with a capital L. Several race veterans stated they don’t remember the river being any lower. The winning paddler, Trever Maclean, paddled the course in 2:19:05 — and thereby earned the ignominious distinction of having the slowest winning time in recent memory. My review of the records shows it may be the slowest winning time since 1988, when Lee Martin and John Mathiew paddled a C2 Medium (2-person medium racing canoe) to a time of 2:27.46.

The trend in the last 4 years has been toward slower winning times and slower times overall. What is going on here? Is it that modern paddlers, despite their caffeinated energy drinks, carbon-infused paddles, and gym-chiseled physiques just can’t hold a paddle up to their forebears?

The 10-mile stretch of flatwater between Kenduskeag and Bangor provided plenty of time to meditate on the ways that low water slows you down: (1) low water means less current, taking several miles per hour off your average speed; (2) low water means more distance, as it requires more maneuvering to find deeper water and to avoid rocks; (3) low water means increased influence of “shallow water drag.” This invisible and sometimes overlooked factor is probably the strongest of the three. Some have claimed that paddling in water as shallow as 12″ increases drag and resistance by up to 90%.

Losing a foot or two of river depth adds up to a big deal, or at least that is what I was more than a little motivated to prove, given that my own times have also been getting slower.

Streamflow and river height are two factors that might allow comparisons between different years. The recently installed USGS gauge on the Kenduskeag measured 4.4 feet on race day. Unfortunately there is no such data from previous years.

Lacking that data, I considered several other methods that might allow comparison of times from year to year. I decided to use the average of the top 20 times from each year as a baseline for determining whether the river was running fast or slow, also understanding that the size and competitiveness of field does vary, which makes these comparisons somewhat inexact:

Year / Winning Time (Name of Winner) / Average Time of Top 20 Finishers*:
2007 / 1:53 (Owen & Woodward) / 2:07
2008 / 1:57 (Maclean & Hall) / 2:15
2009 / 2:19 (Maclean) / 2:42
2010 / 2:19 (Maclean) /2:50
*Times rounded off to nearest minute.

Assuming the field was equally competitive in the past four years, we can conclude that the river was slowest in 2010 — and that for even the winning paddlers, it was 26 minutes slower than in 2007, which was a high water year. For the “average top 20 paddler,” the river was 8 minutes slower than last year (another low water year) and a whopping 43 minutes slower than in 2007

We can also conclude that the most impressive win in the last 4 years was actually Trevor Maclean’s win this year. His time was 31 minutes faster than this years “top 20 average.” This makes sense in that this year Maclean was pushed hard by Robert Lang, who finished 2nd just a few minutes behind Maclean, and who would have had an even faster time, had he not capsized twice during the race.

My look at the numbers also supports a couple of other somewhat common sense conclusions: (1) high water tends to clump the field while low water spreads it out; (2) in low water, single kayaks probably have an advantage relative to tandem kayaks, canoes, and war canoes.

My times in the past 4 years were 2:04:54, 2:13:17, 2:38:53, and 2:38:49.

I was happy to find that even though my times have been trending slower, my performances relative to river conditions (and the average of the 20 fastest times) have been improving. In the last 4 years, my margin over the “top 20 average” has been 2 minutes, 2 minutes. 3.5 minutes, and 10.5 minutes respectively.

Maybe low water isn’t so bad after all.

If you’d like to read more, my blog about last year’s race is here

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A Week on the Passy: From Winter to Spring

The photos in the slideshow above were taken while paddling a 5.5 mile section of the Passagassawakeag River 7 times during the 8 days period of March 29 to April 5, 2009. The photos are arranged geographically, moving from west to east, along the river, rather than by date taken.

It may not be a large or famous river. It’s certainly not the longest. It might, however, be the river with the longest name: Passagassawakeag. sixteen letters, ten of which are “a” or “s.”

Passagassawakeag. Learn to pronounce it fluently and you can impress both locals and visitors alike. The origin of the river’s name has been variously translated as place of ghosts, sturgeon river, clear fish river, and place for spearing sturgeon by torch-light.

Whatever it was named for, the Passy is a fun and beautiful river. One well worth getting to know. Paddling friends and I marvel at the fact that more people don’t get out on this river. Compared to downhill skiing for example, it costs less, is closer to home, and requires no more skill or expertise than running an intermediate slope on a big mountain.

The section of the river featured in the photos is the same one used in the annual Passy River Race, this year held on April 4. The put in is near the Littlefield farm on the Savage Road in Waldo. The take-out is a few hundred yards short of the intersection of the Rount 137 and the Shepard Road. Several miles of flatwater interspersed with sections of Class I, II, and III whitewater are found on this varied section of the Passy.

For their first trip down the Passy, those unfamiliar with the river and those new to paddling should seek to to with an experienced paddler.

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Why I Love the Kenduskeag

I’ve competed in 5-K and 10-K road races, cross country races, xc ski races, and triathlons, but I haven’t found a form of racing I enjoy as much as kayak racing. I’ve paddled all kinds of rivers — and raced on at least a half dozen of them, but I haven’t found a river race I enjoy as much as the annual Kenduskeag Stream Canoe Race.

Part of it is the number of canoes and kayaks involved — more than 400 on most years. Part of it is the length and difficulty of the race — 10 miles of flatwater followed by 6.5 miles of whitewater — made all the more difficult by fatigue. Part of it is the tradition — the race has been around for more than 40 years now, and the returnees each year include notables such as the Gumby boat (photo) and Zip Kellogg, who wears a coat and top hat and paddles much of the race standing up.

A combined flatwater / whitewater race such as the Kenduskeag is a triathlon in itself. The first event is the 10 miles of flatwater, which tests your physical and mental stamina and your ability to get in a groove with your paddling stroke. The second event is the whitewater, a combined test of strategy, skill, and pluck. The third event (actually interpersed with the second one) is the two mandatory portages, in which competitors stagger ashore in wet gear, and labor their way through crowds of park-goers and spectators, carrying their suddenly clumsy craft through the mud.

How to survive it all. How to go fast the whole time and still leave enough to get to the finish. How to keep focus through those inevitable moments when, disoriented by fatigue, you forget you are in a race at all — and it is just you, your boat, and that river shining under the spring sunlight.